How to replace brake disks and pads
First, please may I start with a bit of preamble…
Listen to your car!
Try and find a bit of road with high side garden walls or
similar. Open all your windows and cruise up and down this bit of road,
preferably when it is quite or not much other traffic around. Listen to the
sounds your car makes. These sounds will bounce or echo of the walls and will be
amplified slightly through the open windows. You will hear lots of things
happening that perhaps you were not aware of before hand. Do this with the radio
off, then with the air/con on and off, try changing gears or kick down if an
automatic, try the brakes slowly or if safe give em a stab, apply the handbrake
gently and if safe vigorously. Just listen to your car and how it responds to
all these options!
Now I suggest that you do this about 4 times a year, once
every 3 months. Your car is talking to you and it uses a language that is
foreign until you get used to it. Get to know its nuances and make a mental note
of how well it is running. Then when it is feeling a bit sick; and more often
than not this starts happening very slowly, you will distinguish these sounds
from when it is well. It could save you a lot of money and heartache.
Why I say this is because I didn’t practice what I have
just preached as you will see in a moment. I always jump into the car the radio
comes on when I start her up and I’m off. It’s not loud but it does distract
from listening to my car.
Last week I took her into to get the Automatic Gear box
fixed and when I went to pick it up the guys told be that there was a grinding
noise and I should check the brake pads etc. So on the way home I did listen
using the method above and sure enough there was a slight grinding noise. Half
the beauty of these cars is the nice quite smooth ride. I like to be taken from
A to B and not have to drive there but as I don’t have a chauffeur so I have to
do it myself.
Anyway enough of that. When I got home I took a look at all
the wheels and on peering through the alloy spokey-e-dokey’s, on the nearside
rear I saw something horrible. I took the car round to a local mechanic and he
said it would cost me about £160 for him to change the disks and pads. I
decided; out of sheer cussedness, to do it myself. The following is what
I bought the Mintex disks and pads from eBay and a warning
sensor wire too. Little did I realise I was going to need some additional bits
as well, more on this later. These cost me about £60 all together. I saving of
First I couldn’t get the wheels off, they had become stuck;
I now believe, because the disks had rusted and gripped the alloy wheels. I had
to use a piece of wood and a hammer to knock each side of the wheel also at top
and bottom to get it to let go.
Some say that a rubber mallet should be used. That is
probably a good idea, but as I didn’t have one I used a bit of 3X2 and hit it
with the hammer. Don’t hit the tyre wall as this could weaken it and cause a
probable blowout some where down the track. Also don’t hit the rim with the
hammer direct as this will damage it (the wheel not the hammer). It should only
need a few gentle taps and that should break the rust binding to the alloy.
Eventually it did and I was presented with this extraordinary view.
I imagine the pads had been worn out for some time, but
because I was listening to the radio and not the car, I was unaware of what
could have been a potential danger to myself and others. I noticed when the guys
at the auto transmission place jumped in to test drive the old girl, the first
thing they did was turn the radio and air/con off. So live and learn from my
experience. Listen to your car.
The above picture was taken just after I had done a 35 mile
round trip to the auto transmit guys. One positive thing to come out of this…
Our cars are well insulated against outside noise aren’t they! Or; more likely,
I am just dim and deaf (don’t respond to that).
Now this picture below is not the best as I couldn’t get my
camera and my head in under the wheel arch at the same time. But it does show
how tight a fit this area is. You have to get a spanner down inside the back of
the calliper to undo the circled bolt and one below this to remove the
Now this brings me to something I wasn’t prepared for. I
could not get my socket set into this area to get a firm fit on the bolt head so
I could turn it. Fortunately my wife has her own car so I was able to pop out to
buy an appropriate tool. Unfortunately the only place near enough to where I
live is Halfords in Telford another 35 mile round trip. After looking at a few
options they had I decided to get myself a set of these.
Quite expensive but has to be the best tool I have
purchased for a long while now. They come with a lifetime guarantee; you break
one and they will replace it for free; or so the man said. To be honest it was
the only tools that would fit into the area behind the calliper where the two
bolts are that have to be undone. I had tried an open ended spanner but it was
going to do more damage to the bolt head and then I would have had some serious
problems getting them out. Believe me I tried very hard but decided that
discretion was the better part than stuffing it up. Be warned! These bolts are
very tight and difficult to undo.
Don’t be tempted to hammer the top of the spanner after
attaching it to the bolt to jolt it loose. You will do more damage to bolts and
or surrounding areas and probably not get the spanner replaced if it is abused
this way Use copious amounts of WD40 or equivalent. After much effort I did get
them undone using brute forces and gloves to protect my hands. If anyone can
suggest a better way then by all means do so.
This now brings me to another problem I had, your situation
I didn’t have the right size star shaped bit required to
undo the screw that holds the disk onto the axle. So while at Halfords I also
bought a set of these. Again quite expensive but should do me for a while now
that I intend to do all my own services.
The disks takes some getting off if the hand brake shoes
are adjusted up tight. It may require adjusting them down a bit so that the old
disks come off (Check the Haynes book for details on this). I didn’t have any
problems with this side but the other side was difficult, more on this later.
Once undone and disks removed I was presented with this
view… Note I have supported the calliper with a length of wire attached to the
spring so it doesn’t put any strain on the brake fluid hose.
I cleaned off all the surfaces in this area with an old dry
rag and give it a good brush out with an old paint brush, don’t be tempted to
use any DW40 or any other oily substance that will leave residue which will
contaminate the brake pads and make the brakes inoperative. Also wear a mask to
avoid inhaling the dust.
Clean the new disks with an appropriate liquid that doesn’t
leave an oily residue on the pads. I used some white spirit some suggest
Mentholated spirit. You need to get the transport rust protective oily residue
off the new disks not forgetting the interior where the hand brake pads run
against the drum surface. Get these surfaces as clean as you can, this will
enable bedding in to be quicker.
Once you are happy with all the cleaning interior and
disks, fit the new disk and screw it into position. Then apply the hand brake a
few times to make sure the hand brake pads are centred inside the new drum. Take
it off and spin the new disk to make sure it isn’t binding and apply the hand
brake again and then loosen off. If there seems to be a bit of play or you can
still spin the disk while the hand brake is on you will have to adjust the
knurled adjuster through a hole in the disk… On my old cars in Australia to
adjust the hand brake all you had to do was reverse and apply the handbrake
gently. Apparently this adjusted them automatically. I am not sure if this
still applies to the MG Rover cars. Perhaps someone can inform us.
To adjust the hand brake you will need to pass a small
head screwdriver through a hole so that it locks under the notches on this
Pass it through a hole in the new disks like this... Yeah I
know I am still showing the old disk here but it serves its purpose.
And lever it up or down to adjust. Check with your
Haynes book about how much adjustment to make. This is a tedious job
getting the blade to engage with the knurled nut and the adjustments can get
confusing as to witch way; up or down, to get the hand brakes adjusted properly.
Don't make them too tight but make them so that there is little travel for the
hand brake pads.
Now we get to an interesting bit…
Undo the top of the brake fluid container under the bonnet
Note that the fluid level is well above the MAX level of
the fluid. This is because I took this image after I had done the next bit (see
below). At this stage just undo the top but leave it very loose on top of the
filler cup to stop any dirt getting in. There are differing opinions about
doing this but in my case this method worked. Some would prefer to bleeding the
brakes through the fluid bleed nipple located at the brake calliper end. I
didn’t undo these I undid the cap and allowed the fluid to be pushed back up
into the container as I separated the old pads in the calliper. I did not have
any problems with this at all but be aware that the fluid can overflow into the
plenum area, keep an eye on this fluid level in the cup. Use an assistant to
watch it while you are spreading the old pads. I have done this on many cars
both here and in Australia without any problems. You do what you feel
Now we have to push the old brake pads apart.
Unfortunately I was so engrossed in what I was doing I forgot to take any
photos of this stage. I found using a large screw driver inserted between the
old pads and twisted and pulled from side to side did return the piston back
into the calliper. Do this while the old pads are still in there, it makes for
less the possibility to damage the piston and dust grommet. Do it slowly and
keep watching that the fluid doesn’t overflow from the cup.
Once done I found a pair of long nose pliers helped to get
the old pads out… The pads are a tight fit and in this very dry and rusting
environment it is difficult to get them out. Although it is much easier to get
the old ones out than to put the new ones in.
The image below shows one of the new pads inserted into the
gap and then it has to be pushed against the piston head and seated into the
recess before trying to get the other pad in; as in the second shot.
Getting the other one in is a real pain, both pads are new
and thick and it is like trying to get 10lb of spuds into a 5lb bag. The phrase
”Does my bum look big in this” comes to mind and the answer is a definite yes.
Persevere and it will go eventually. You may have to try different angles and
twists and turns. I finished up give it a few taps with the hammer. I thing the
main problem is the thick protective paint on the new ones that creates the
problem. The following picture is from the offside wheel. I had major problems
getting this one in, but eventually it did fit.
If anyone knows of a method for getting these in easier
please let us all know how it is done.
Refit the calliper…
At this stage don’t press the brake pedal yet. Now replace
the disk and pads on the other side. The only difference is that the driver side
has the brake warning sensor. Now we get to a few issues I had that in all
probability you will not have. When I eventually got the calliper off the pads
on the drivers side they were hardly warn down…
I now realise that the reason why the warning light on the
dash didn’t come on to tell me that the rear brakes had warn down was because
this side had not. Yet the nearside pads were down to metal. I was completely
unaware that they were in this state. I only discovered this after I removed the
driver side wheel and calliper. Hind-sight is wonderful. I don't know why MG
Rover didn't put sensors on both sides. I believe the front ones are the same.
As I said... Listen to your car!
Now keep checking the MAX level in the fluid cup and
siphon off any excess. Replace the cap and turn until tight.
Replace all wheels and lower car to ground. Get in but do
not start the engine yet. Press the brake pedal and it will sink to the floor,
this is normal. Pump the brake slowly until it feels solid and comes up and
reaches the top, keep the pedal pressed down DO NOT take your foot off yet. Now
start the engine, the pedal will slowly depress or go down THIS IS
NORMAL. Once it has reach its lowest level and while engine is still running
pump it again and it should come back up to the top and feel solid. Turn engine
off and check the fluid level in the cup again. Make sure it is not higher than
MAX or top up with new DOT 4 only if it has gone down below MAX. (Don't put the
old fluid back in use new DOT 4 fluid) Go round all wheels and check for
leaks. Pump the pedal again to make sure it is solid. Start the engine again
and this time it may not sink but if it does pump it, check the levels again in
the fluid reservoir and check for leaks again. Keep doing this until you
are happy with everything. Go for a test drive.
Make sure it is safe to do so and test the brakes by
pumping them. If you haven’t done anything to the front brakes you may not
notice much difference in performance. Listen to you car! While driving slowly
apply the foot brake and listen to your car. If safe apply the hand brake
slowly while still driving the car so that excess oily deposits will be burned
off. Do this a few times for a hundred yards or so. Eventually find a safe
place to allow the car to roll in neutral and gently apply the hand brake so
that it brings the car to a stop. It may take a while for the brakes to bed in
but it will depending on your driving style. I did all of the above to mine and
the hand brake started to squeal after a while. I now feel confident that the
hand brake works okay.
After a few days or miles of normal running check the
fluid levels and for any leaks and check the rear brakes pads again,
take note of the new disks for grooving just in case any large stones or dirt
got in there.
And that’s it. And the moral of the story… Listen to your